Do you have a project in mind but have no idea where to start?  Let us help you.  One of the first things you will want to do is decide what kind of fiberglass you want to use.  Do you need to build up thickness fast?  Are you concerned about strength? Do you have tight corners you are working with?  Let us break things down a bit to help you decide if fiberglass cloth is right for your project or if you are needing chopped strand mat. Keep in mind that you can actually use both together to achieve your desired outcome. Below is an overview.

Fiberglass Cloth

(Plain weave fiberglass cloth)

Fiberglass Cloth is a woven fabric. Plain, 4 harness satin and 8 harness satin are the weave styles we carry. The 46 and 10 ounce plain weave fabrics are the most commonly used. In this simple plain weave pattern, warp and fill yarns are interlaced over and under each other in alternating fashion. The plain weave is the easiest to handle since it does not unravel as much as the other weaves when cut.


In the four-harness satin weave pattern there is a three by one interfacing where a filling yarn floats over three warp yarns and under one.

The eight harness satin is similar to the four harness satin except that one filling yarn floats over seven warp yarns and under one. The satin weaves are slightly stronger and more pliable than the plain weave and are easier to conform to curved surfaces. They are more difficult to handle than the plain weave, though. Use fiberglass cloth when you are looking to create a strong, light weight product.

Chopped Strand Mat

Chopped Strand Mat (also known as fiberglass mat) has short strands of fibers held together with a resin binder. The fibers are randomly oriented. Mat is only compatible with polyester and vinyl ester resin. When resin is added to the mat, the binder dissolves and the fibers can be moved around. It is easier to conform mat to tight curves and corners than it is with weaved fabric. The reason chopped strand mat is not compatible with epoxy resin is because the binder holding the fibers together needs styrene to properly dissolve.  Polyester and vinyl ester resins have styrene in them. (There are some places that sell chopped strand mat that is compatible with epoxy but it is hard to come by and much more expensive). Chopped strand mat is the least expensive fiberglass and is often used in mold construction or projects where thickness is needed. Mat is often used as the first layer (before the gelcoat) in a laminate to prevent print through. Print through is when the fabric weave texture shows through the resin. Chopped Strand mat does not have much strength. If you need strength you should choose a woven cloth or you could mix the two. Mat can be used between layers of woven fabric to help build thickness quickly and aid in all layers bonding well together.

If you have any questions feel free to comment.  We will do our best to reply with an answer. Or, you can visit our website Fiberglass Warehouse for more information.

For more detailed information on each fiberglass cloth we carry, you can CLICK HERE.

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By Dallin Leach 55 comment

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comments (55)

  • Julian

    I’m going to be restoring an 80’s bowrider. I intend to use 3/4 standard plywood for the floors, and want a waterproof coating to lay carpet over. What is the least expensive way to accomplish this using your products? Also, if I decide to re-glass the stringers and the areas of the bilge, do you have any recommendations?

    REPLY from fgwarehouse: Thanks for the question. I would recommend adding a layer of fiberglass and resin to the plywood. You can just seal it with resin, but if there is a ding or gouge, it would open up the plywood to get wet. Since the floor won’t be always wet, you can use Orca 200 General Purpose laminating resin and 3/4 oz Chopped Strand Mat. As for the stringers, I would use Orca 301 ISO Laminating resin and Knitted Fabric 1708. The ISO resin is a stronger resin and the 1708 is a strong thick fabric/mat hybrid. Typically two layers are used.

  • Robb

    I am trying to build a new dashboard for my 79 Firebird. It has a lot of cutouts that I’m going to cover up. Once they’re covered, I am going to make a mold from it. I assume I would do that with CSM. After the mold, what weight and weave would you recommend? I was thinking a plain weave because the curves aren’t too aggressive but maybe a 4 or 8 harness would be more accommodating? Thanks so much!

    REPLY from fgwarehouse: Most people would just use CSM for the dash also. If you want to cloth, then a combo of CSM and a layer of cloth will work well. The 4 and 6 oz plain weave are pretty good and complying to curved surfaces. The 4 and 8 harness satin weaves are very tightly woven and can be rather stiff.

    REPLY from Robb: Okay, I’ll just use CSM for everything. Do you sell full kits or do I need to buy everything individually? Also, do I need to worry about mold release or gloss coat compatibility with my current dash that will become the base for my mold?

  • John

    So, which is better the two? The Fibermat or the Woven/Cloth in terms of making motorcycle fairings?
    Thank You!

    REPLY from fgwarehouse: Most people will just use the chopped strand mat. Chopped Strand Mat

  • theo mul

    I am building a large concrete swimming pool. I am thinking about economizing on the cement work (less /thinner rebar etc.) but then adding a fibreglass lining. However, only csm 450 is available! Would this be posible and if so, how many layers would you recomend.

    REPLY from fgwarehouse: This is a tough question. You would have to create a very thick layer of fiberglass to replace any amount of cement. I would probably skip the concrete all together and just put in a fiberglass pool.

  • Tony

    We live in a fairly dry part of SEQ. At the time of building our home our water tanks had to include a ‘first flush’ system which was intended to release (dribble) the first flush of water from any rain event. So we dug a small irregular (approx 4 square metres) unlined frog/fish pond under the first flush outlet. With the weather getting progressively drier we feel we need to minimise having to replenish the water every second day. The shape of the pond is considerate of the trees and shrubs around it and hence the reason why we have not persued a prefabricated shell.
    Would DIY fibreglassing be a practical option, and if so what would be the optimal products to use?

    REPLY from fgwarehouse: It is a possible. It is tricky because of the dirt. Laying fiberglass and resin directly on the dirt is messy. BUt if you place a plastic sheet down first and lay up on that, you can definitely do it.

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